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Travel Alberta

Reel Adventures: Badlands and Bad Guys


CALGARY TO DRUMHELLER, BROOKS AND HANNA


There’s an imposing size to the country east of  Calgary, a swatch of broad plain under a big sky that needs only the silhouette of horse and rider to conjure up images of bold cinematic westerns. So choose your hat colour, black or white, and let’s ride the sage of the silver screen to a place where bullets, broncos and bravado hold sway.

Calgary

While in Calgary, a visit to Heritage Park, 1900 Heritage Drive SW, will help spur our western movie tour. Situated on a sprawl of land on the shore of the Glenmore Reservoir, the park includes an authentic period town crafted from buildings found across southern Alberta and an operating steam locomotive. It furnished the makers of The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford with the perfect set.

Trip One: Calgary to Drumheller (Distance: 145 km/90 mi)

Leave Calgary heading east on the Trans-Canada Highway for about 25 km (15 mi) before turning north and east on Highway 9 toward Drumheller, home of the Royal Tyrrell Museum and surrounded by its famous dinosaur badlands. Much of Unforgiven was set in this area.

Beiseker: Before Drumheller, where Highway 9 turns east at Highway 72, sits Beiseker and a touch of Brokeback Mountain. Ennis Del Mar lived in his trailer here, visited by his daughter Alma. To find the spot, take First Avenue just under a kilometer to the town dump and turn right at the dump sign for 300 meters (985 ft). The site is surrounded by a white fence. At the intersection of the two highways is the Siesta Motel; the exterior was used in the film.

If you have time, take Highway 72 west 6.6 km (4 mi) to Range Road 264, turn south and go 3.2 km (~2 mi) to Township Road 280. It’s where Ennis worked on the paving crew. East of town, 6.5 km (~4 mi) along Highway 72, is the Twist Ranch, home of Jack Twist’s parents, visited by Ennis after Jack’s death. Turn south on Range Road 252 at the Grande Ole West Villa Ranch sign for 1.6 km (~1 mi) and you’ll find the abandoned ranch house on the left side of the road. This is private property, so permission must be obtained before entering the ranch. For much more detail on Brokeback Mountain scene locations, visit Finding Brokeback.

Rockyford: There’s plenty more Brokeback Mountain in the tiny community of Rockyford. From Beiseker, continue east on Highway 9 about 19 km (~12 mi) then south on Highway 21. In town you’ll find JT’s Bar where the phone booth was located; the Childress Dancehall facade and the Riverton Post Office at Main and First Avenue. Across from the Post Office is a CIBC Bank, used as the exterior of the dancehall where the Twists and the Malones spend an evening and where Jack sits outside with Randall. Here, too, is the Rockyford Rodeo Grounds, used in the movie for both the Electra and Childress rodeos, and the parking spot where Jack and Lureen made out in the car.

Towards Drumheller: From Rockyford, double back on Highway 21 north towards Highway 9. At the intersection, go east on Highway 9 for about 45 km (~28 mi) to Drumheller. The road to Drumheller and beyond is also Unforgiven territory. About 17 km (10 mi) before you reach Drumheller—and still on Highway 9—is Horseshoe Canyon in the Drumheller Valley; next to the valley is the location of Morgan Freeman’s shack in Unforgiven. Parts of Superman were also filmed in the canyon. The area has doubled for several world locales, primarily the Middle East. It also served as backdrop for a Shanghai Noon with Jackie Chan.

Drumheller: Step back millions of years to the real-life world of the dinosaurs at the Royal Tyrrell Museum, a world-class exhibition and research facility. Devoted entirely to palaeontology, it displays more than 200 dinosaur specimens, video theatres and hands-on scientific experiments. The museum is located 6 km (4 mi) west of Drumheller on North Dinosaur Trail (Hwy 838). The Dinosaur Trail Golf & Country Club provided the setting for Where the Dinosaurs Roam, while Midland Provincial Park provided the backdrop for Roughing It.

Short Side Trips from Drumheller

Take a short drive from Drumheller to Nacmine on Highway 838, where you’ll find El Coyote Bar, converted into a Mexican bar for Dead Bang. The town was also featured in The Hitcher II: I’ve Been Waiting. In Wayne (off Highway 570), you’ll find the Last Chance Saloon & Hotel, which has also served as a location for many films as well as commercials for Tilley Hats and Jaguar.

Just down the road on Highway 570, you’ll find East Coulee, which served as a location for the Dino Sapien TV series. Also filmed in East Coulee were Children of Fortune and You Know My Name. Tour the Atlas Coal Mine National Historic Site, one of the most complete coal mining museums in Canada. Take a mine tour, hear fascinating stories, climb the last wooden tipple in Canada or ride in a coal car, all with the assistance of an experienced guide, right in the heart of the Badlands.

About 7 km (4.4 mi) east of East Coulee, close to the River was the site for Ararat. Continuing down the road on Highway 570 towards Dorothy, turn south on Highway 848, cross a yellow bridge, and 500 m (1640 ft) on the west side of the road is the Brokeback Mountain flashback scene.

Trip 2: Drumheller to Hanna (77 km/47.8 mi), Hannah to Brooks (134km/83 mi)

From Drumheller, staying on Highway 9 and heading north, just before the highway turns east, take the north extension (Highway 56) to ghost town Rowley, where Bye Bye Blues was filmed. Back on Highway 9 heading east, a short drive south on Highway 851 takes you to Delia and locations for Knockaround Guys. Again on Highway 9, about 40 km (25 mi) east is Hanna, hometown of the rock group Nickelback. The band returned here to film the video of its song Photograph. The Depression-era tale Why Shoot The Teacher was filmed here.

From Hanna, we’ll head south on Highway 36 to Brooks, where Texas Rangers was filmed. In Brooks, you can stay at the Heritage Inn and Convention Centre, where Clint Eastwood and Morgan Freeman stayed while filming Unforgiven. Next door at the Heritage Inn and Suites, Robin Williams took a room while filming RV. At 119 15th Avenue West, you’ll find O’Sheas, popular with Robin Williams. Brooks Hospital lays claim to having Clint Eastwood as a patient; he was treated here for a minor injury while filming Unforgiven.

Sidetrips from Brooks

North on Highway 873 takes you to Dinosaur Provincial Park, a breathtaking land of hoodoos set amid prairie grasses and the Red Deer River in Alberta’s Canadian Badlands. You can enjoy interpretive bus tours and hikes to learn more about the spectacular badlands scenery, fossils and wildlife. Lake Newell, located south of Brooks on Highway 873, features Kinbrook Island Provincial Park. The lake is a haven for migrating birds, watchable from three sanctuaries. Farther along Highway 873 is the intersection of Highway 535, where at Rainier, you can fill up with gas, as did the families in RV, at the Prairie Oasis.

Brooks to Calgary (188 km/117 mi)

The Trans-Canada Highway takes you back to Calgary. About 40 km (25 mi) down the road is Bassano, home of the Prairie Schooner Hotel, one of the locations for Knockaround Guys. From Bassano, your drive back to Calgary is about 140 km (87 mi) on the Trans Canada Highway.



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